Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Green Dragon Type

Just some good signs from the Green Dragon Farmer's Market. And yeah I came home with a log of that Lebanon Bologna. 

Creamed Chipped Beef at Town Hall Restaurant

I've held a long standing belief that the best creamed chipped beef comes from PA Dutch country and not Philadelphia — although this is based mostly on hearsay, wishful thinking, and tales from my parents of some mythical creamed chipped beef they had somewhere in Ephrata in 1965. 

Most Philadelphia CCB is either wallpaper paste thick (you could hold the plate upside down with no problem and it jiggles like jello) with big slabs of barely-chopped dried beef (not optimum, but hey at least they still have it on the menu, and some people love it like this) OR way too fancied up. One exception being Two Birds Catering's delicious version served at Garage for sunday brunch.

Town Hall's creamed chipped beef - $1.95 over toast / $2.95 over potatoes (!!) was close to goddamn perfect. For real. The beef was chopped fine tender - usually achieved by slowly cooking it in butter - and the gravy was the absolute perfect consistency. And it just had flavor. 40 times more flavor than most of what I've had in Philadelphia. And totally different; a deep, rich flavor from something other than cheap beef and salt. Like there is some sort of secret ingredient- mushroom gravy? beef broth? lard? worcestershire sauce? 

Town Hall Restaurant is located in the Blue Ball firehouse. Although the locals call their town "East Earl, PA" - meaning don't ask for a Blue Ball postcard and save your jokes for the drive home. On a "pleasant to obvious non-locals" scale of 1-10 I'd give them an 8.

Great coffee. fluffy omelets, old guys in tractor hats reading the newspaper at the counter, old bread signs all over the walls, the whole deal, and still cooking some really really exceptional country diner / luncheonette food.

Town Hall Restaurant
4315 Division Highway (Route 322)
East Earl (Blue Ball), PA
opens 6am

Monday, July 28, 2014

Gayle's Market and Country Ham - Penn Laird, VA

"This place smells funny"
"There is a weird room in the back with a giant pile of pig parts on a table"

Red flags for my friends. To me a sign of the real deal. There is sort of a fine line between "uber authentic so-and-so from a shack behind the sunoco" and the sort of place you would see on TV with Gordon Ramsay tossing 40 lbs of rotten chicken into the garbage. There is definitely that moment where you bite into something and think "this is either going to be the best thing I've ever eaten or give me food poisoning".  I've definitely had both.

But it's also pretty ridiculous that our urban minds equate clutter and the south with "dirty" while back home we happily pay $60 a head to eat 4 slivers of "authentic artisan country ham" (made in a place like this) shaved onto an ikea plate in a joint made of "reclaimed barn wood" that probably came from a farm 2 miles from here. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but you know don't miss the real deal when it's right in front of your face.

Anyway Gayle's is the truth. Country ham everywhere. Just piles of piles of it. They make their own, which you can buy by the ham, the slab, or sliced like deli meat. Also other brands of country ham, just stacked up all over the store. And other things like "side meat", ham hocks, pon hass (scrapple), and their own made loose sausage, which along with a styrofoam pint of country ham broth makes the best sausage gravy of all time. The hot dog and packaged sausage selection was pretty basic commercial brands, this is not the place for that. Stick with their home made pork products and you will not be bummed.

And in case the first paragraph makes you think otherwise, yeah this place is cluttered and funky but everything was fresh and rotated and food surfaces completely clean. I feel safer eating here than 99% of South Philly corner stores.

And yeah. Country ham freshly sliced on white bread with mayonnaise for something like 3 dollars. Holy god damn. They also have pre-made country ham sandwiches at the counter on burger buns for $1.25 but they are a little dry. You definitely need some mayonnaise (and maybe a 42 ounce can of bud light) to balance out all that salt. If you are down this way and like this sort of thing don't miss Gayle's. They also have a second location a few miles away that we found while getting lost.

Gayle's Market and Country Ham
5439 Spottswood Trail
Penn Laird, VA 

Gayle's Quick Stop
Highway 340
Grottoes, VA

Monday, August 26, 2013

Leavitt's Bakery - Conway NH

Found this place while desperately searching for vegetables to cook over a campfire. Right next to the quaint New Hampshire farm stand (which was awesome) was this terrific bakery.

One of the older folks walking up saw me pointing my camera at a donut and yelled "What are you doing? That's for eating, not taking pictures! Put it in your mouth!" And stood there waiting for me to  take a bite in a charming New England manner.

Apparently a "Lemon Bismark" is lemon filling and white cream sandwiched on a split donut. It was 99 cents and delicious. We also got an Apple Fritter that was equally as good. 

Donuts in New England are a pretty serious thing but also totally unpretentious and no frills. Atkins Farm in Amherst remains to this day probably my favorite donut of all time. Driving through Western Mass and New Hampshire there definitely seems to be a Dunkin every mile, but also a mind-blowing local doughnut shop full of old timers drinking coffee every 5. 

Read more about Leavitt's from the Conway Daily Sun

Leavitt's Bakery 
(& Whitakers Farm Stand)
564 White Mountain HWY
Conway, NH

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Hot Diggity Corn Dog Special

Hot Diggity's special for the month of September. Three corn dogs -each half of a Sabrett natural casing dog - topped with a Korean chili / condensed milk thing, honey dust, and a jalapeno / sour cream sauce.

I love all of Hot Diggity's specials, some of them are really inventive and next-level, but this might be my favorite in terms of less thinking and more eating.

One cool thing about corn dogs is that for whatever reason you don't have the same regional authenticity fanaticism that comes with standard hot dogs - nobody's going to come in and yell at you for making corn dogs wrong, or that you're destroying America by putting Korean sauce on something traditional. Maybe because corn dogs were (probably) invented / popularized at State Fairs, where crazier is better anyway.

Anyway, these things are DELICIOUS, go eat them now, and wash it down with some corn soda or new victorian lemonade, or bring a six pack and make shandies.. 

630 South Street 

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Hot Diggity / COOK Hot Dog Class Recaps

Chicago Depression-style made w/ Vienna Beef natural casing, also served w/ fries

Detroit Coney w/ Winter's Sausage L-901 wiener and Keith's beef heart chili
Don't miss Drew Lazor's terrific recap of the recent hot dog class and tasting menu I did with Keith Garabedian of Hot Diggity. There's also some great action shots on Holly Moore's facebook page.

Pretty intimidating (and awesome) serving dogs to Rick Nichols Holly Moore and Scott Schroeder, probably the only people in Philadelphia who think about hot dogs as much as Keith & I do, and from whom I've definitely absorbed/lifted many bits of hot dog and Philadelphia food knowledge.

Keith (left) and myself (right)
At one point one of the fancy Rittenhouse ladies (who loved the dogs) said to her dining partner "It's like a cult, a hot dog cult!". Amazing.

May the Forcemeats Be With You : Hot Diggity and Hawk Krall Go Wiener-Crazy at Cook - Drew Lazor

Hot Dog Evening At Cook - Holly Moore

all photos - Drew Lazor / Holly Moore

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Cook Philly / Hot Diggity Hot Dog Class

It's hot dog season again, which means non-stop hot dog related events here in Philadelphia, half of which I think I'm involved with (I can't keep track of it either) including several hot dog art shows, the Wienermobile, a hot dog topping contest, hot dog specials at restaurants all over the city (Brauhaus Schmitz is serving Rieker's dogs for a limited time).

But the one event we've really been busting our asses for the last few weeks is this Hot Dog Class and 8-course hot dog tasting menu at Audrey Claire's Cook.

It's a bit steep at $135 a ticket, but along with discussing the history of hot dogs, we're serving a 1-time only epic regional hot dog menu - a collaboration between Keith Garebedian of Hot Diggity and myself -where we've gone to great lengths to recreate 8 different regional dogs with as much authenticity as humanly possible.

Rather than simply topping any old dogs with regionally inspired toppings, we're having the appropriate frankfurter brands shipped in from all over the country, many of which you would never find at a Philadelphia hot dog stand, and may never see in Philadelphia again.

For a handful of the courses we're also using local dogs - Levis brand for a Philly pepper hash dog, and even driving up to Newark next week to pick up dogs from Best Provisions (brand served at Memphis Taproom, and the standard for deep-fried NJ Italian hot dogs) and fresh Pizza Bread from a North Jersey bakery to make real deal New Jersey Italian Hot Dogs.

Last week we embarked on a mission to source old-fashioned German wieners for the 1st course, to be served with Keith's house made sauerkraut, scouring Philadelphia sausage shops and European markets for the best.

We brought everything back to Hot Diggity for a 20+ dog taste test, finally settling on Rieker's house-made and smoked 100% Veal Wieners, probably now in my top 5 hot dogs in the country. We also found a great Polish garlic dog for one of the other courses, and more terrific natural casing hot dogs than I thought existed in Philly, but you'll have to wait for the Serious Eats article for all the details.

Another course I'm excited about is the Detroit Coney. We're having L-901 Coneys shipped in from Winter's Sausage in Michigan -  the secret brand that was served at the legendary Lafayette Coney Island (pictured above) until just recently - and topped with Keith's awesome beef heart chili.

We're also doing a Minimalist / Depression style Chicago Dog with natural casing Vienna Beef dogs coming in from Chicago, a Pulliams-style (above) southern "toasted" slaw dog with house-dyed neon red dogs from the Hot Diggity test kitchen; a bacon-wrapped Sonoran dog paired with Diggity's new house made Lime-Jalapeno-Cilantro soda - and a handful of others. And beer. 

$135 (only 6 tickets left!)
Audrey Claire's COOK, 7/28 at 7pm

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Psychedelic Broad & Snyder Chicago Dog from "Tony Cheesesteak"

Walking around Broad & Snyder the other day at 9 in the morning I was surprised to see a food truck parked right down the street from the Walgreens. And then even more surprised to see a crazy menu of super weird supposedly regional hot dog concoctions that looked like either a joke or the best thing on the planet.

I almost dropped my camera trying to take a million photos knowing this truck might only last a couple of days like the gray-hot-dog-food-poisoning nightmare cart that opened up on Broad & Morris last summer for a week or so.

Ahh yes, the old time Philly classic topped with sweet roasted peppers, pickles and American cheese. I couldn't bring myself to order this. I dunno, if it was tomatoes and banana peppers and called the "Pizzaz Dog" i'd probably write about it for the next 25 years.

Next up is the Chicago Dog. Note the authentic Chicago Dog photo, likely printed from the internet at Kinko's, confused by a description that includes "sweet peppers" (not sport peppers), lettuce, cheddar cheese (??) and celery (not celery salt).

Here goes the actual dog. A beef frank on a soft hoagie roll, topped with pickles, thick onion slices, sketchy tomatoes, processed American cheese, giant chunks of celery, ketchup and mayonnaise. 

Quite possibly the most bizarre interpretation of "Chicago Dog" I've ever seen or even heard of. So ridiculous it's sort of amazing, not to eat but maybe as some sort of postmodern "found hot dog art object??"

The ring of grey around the outside of the dog definitely worried me a little bit. I took maybe two bites, it wasn't as bad as I expected but definitely not a Chicago Dog. The American cheese / mayo / ketchup  /  pickles thing really just makes it taste like Mcdonalds, plus celery.

Next up, the Cajun Dog.

This was a spicy all beef sausage, wrapped in turkey ham (no pork on this truck) topped with more American cheese, pickles, onions, ketchup and mayonnaise on a toasted roll. 

The good thing about this one was that the sausage was decent, probably an all beef commercial Italian sausage. And it was actually sort of good, in a kind of drunken-bratwurst meets messy 7-11 nightmare sort of way. Hot dogs are just the beginning here - there's also breakfast sandwiches, burgers, coconut shrimp, egg rolls, and "Asian Coffee" which I'm pretty sure is just Vietnamese Coffee. 

I thought it might be fun to write about these on Hot Dog Of The Week and get the hot dog purists all riled up, but didn't exactly want to recommend these as something good to eat, and at the same time would have felt really bad writing a bad review - it's a great location, they seem like nice people,  and if they could work out the kinks, a hot dog truck on Snyder that serves coconut shrimp and vietnamese coffee called "Tony Cheesesteak" is pretty much the coolest thing in the world.

Tony Cheesesteak
Broad & Snyder